Відео

Good afternoon Maury, I believe that you've now been able to locate the item with assistance from our team. But it can be located on the website here; www.easycomposites.eu/forged-carbon-fibre-kit for all of our EU customers.

@@easycompositestv when they posted the link to the European site, I don't know the reason, it took me back to a non-existent page, 404...... then they advised me to launch a specific search for "forged carbon fiber kit" and I managed to find it, anyway these discussions demonstrate 1) that you only have the English link in the description. 2) on the European site you should be able to quickly access this product via the product menu drop-down by specifying precisely "Forged carbon fiber kit" we would certainly have avoided all these misunderstandings. Therefore I confirm your disorganization in informing European users via links and the poor positioning of this particular product on the site. Thank you anyway for the reply. Until we meet again.

You can touch up with the TC80 Itself and for most small repairs, would not need to thicken the resin system. If you really needed to thicken, you could use fumed silica to thicken it.

A vacuum chamber is not needed as the compression aspect of the process is what removes the air.

@@easycompositestv how can you know? the pressure made by compressing DOES NOT distribute evenly, meaning there will be places of liquid not compressed and containing air... just please try a vacuum chamber, compare the strenght... a good idea for debunking video

We have not seen any made by this method but it may be possible to make some frame parts this way in some cases if a typical moulded manufacture is not possible.

Typically if the part is not stiff enough for twist or rotational forces, you can orient the fibres at an angle to stiffen the part. With a woven or UD fabric this would involve changing the angle from down the length typically to +-45 degrees. With the long fibre tows you may want to experiment with some kind of twisting them to see if that offers better torsional resistance.

It would depend on the geometry of the part and I's this process was suitable. The shock and load from a 3D printer isn't going to be particularly high, especially when you consider how well 'forged carbon' performs in comparison to other materials. ua-cam.com/video/eewlYa6IQPg/v-deo.html

A structural adhesive such as our VM100 is a great product for bonding composite materials together. Just be sure to check that the operation temperatures don't exceed the service temperatures of the adhesive and resin in the tubes.

You wouldn't use a gelcoat for a prepreg but you could certainly use one for the hand layup and infusion processes.

It is technically possible to manufacture composite wheels, however they require a vast amount of mechanical testing to be deemed suitable from a safety aspect.

Thanks for the feedback, glad you found it useful.

Glad it was helpful!

It really depends on the complexity of the mould and how much stress it takes for the compression and the demoulding process. I don't believe we've done any comparative longevity testing with the 2 materials but generally find that PETG offers a good balance of strength and releasability.

It depends on the shape of the part, how hard to demould etc We favour PETG because of its natural release properties from resins and strength.

Glad it helped!

Hi there. Thanks for your continued support. Unfortunately none of us here are Turkish speakers so wouldn't really be possible. If you would like to drop us an email, we can generate the transcript and send it over for you to translate in google.

The particular blade in this video was a Swann Morton 10A

If you have an existing part or pattern you can cast yourself a compression mould tool from tool casting resin as we show in this video . ua-cam.com/video/HrXnv-W_mCY/v-deo.html

The basic principles for the mould would be similar. Due to the complexity of the bagging stack and need to get fibre into place in the mould dry, a complex airbox like this would be very difficult, but a simpler design with less of a return flange should be possible with a bit of thought and planning.

Whilst there is the potential for some small amount of shrinkage we haven't ever noticed anything of any significance. Making your mould size on should give you good enough results from a 3D printed mould.

We haven't done any specific impact testing with forged carbon although one would imagine the fractures to be more localised. Optimising with longer strands would certainly help to mitigate this though as the load is transferred through the whole length of the fibres.

Composite moulding in this way really is a single sided process with a moulded 'A' side and a rougher 'B' side. Additionally, very little strength comes from the gelcoat so adding another layer to the 'B' side would achieve very little. In this case polyethylene runners were attached to the bottom of the sled for an even better sliding surface.

Unlike a thermoplastic, composites like the tubes can not be heated and bent to to shape. To hold any kind of shape they need to be moulded in this manner, for larger diameter tubes this can be done with a multi part mould and internal vacuum bag however this isn't appropriate for such small diameters. The only option really would be to 3D print a dissolvable core and wrap it with a braided sleeve. Once cured the internal structure can be dissolved from the centre.

Ah it's all in the name. 😅 Glad we could help.

It's originally manufactured by Zyliss. It comes in a few guises such as 4 in 1, Z-vise, Profi-King, also under license by Bosch as the Profi. I don't think it's made anymore but you can pick them up second hand.

@@easycompositestv Thank you very much ! I like your video !

The panels are overlapped to provide the strength in the joined areas. For a more structurally critical part, you may want to be more considerate about having longer, unjoined sections. For a bonnet vent with no loading, efficiency of material and pattern tessellation is a higher priority.

Glad you enjoyed, we didn't test it no. With it being a made up component with no comparison it wouldn't produce much usable data. The main purpose was to show the technique for more complex bushes.

Thanks for the reply as always, I'ts on my very long list of things to try one day :)

It would depend entirely on how much of each material was in the composite, the orientation of the fibres, the materials combined with the plywood, the wood/grade of material used in the ply and the method of testing to name a few. Without more parameters there really is no easy answer I'm afraid.

You need to work out the volume of the part not the area. We then explain how to calculate the correct amount of resin and carbon reinforcement at 12:00 in the video.

@@easycompositestv Thank you for the advice. success always for easycompositetv

Under certain conditions yes, however we aren't really intending to fly this drone into sea water. If exposure to electrolytes that was the case you could paint an insulative coat of resin around the inserts prior to the casting.

If you want to add another layer of carbon you can either laminate both layers at the same time, this option could be used for simpler, flatter profiles. For more complex shapes you could laminate the first layer of fabric as per the video and de nib once cured, then key the surface and repeat the steps for applying the fabric. Instead of the black basecoat you can simply use the clear XCR to create the tacky surface.